Review: Granary, Bristol
Housed in the iconic Granary Building on Welsh Back, this restaurant offers more than just a delicious meal, it invites you to dine within a piece of Bristol’s rich history.
Built in 1869 as a granary for Wait, James and Co., this stunning Grade II listed building is one of the finest examples of the Bristol Byzantine style, designed by Archibald Ponton and William Venn Gough. Its distinctive red Cattybrook brick, contrasted with black and white brick and limestone dressings, sets the perfect backdrop for a dining experience rooted in comfort, creativity, and craftsmanship.
Originally designed to dry and store large quantities of grain, the Granary was built for strength, stability, and warmth - qualities that continue to resonate in its current form.
Though it later became a legendary nightclub from 1968 to 1988, today it houses a venue dedicated to uncomplicated yet imaginative food, transforming this historical space into a haven for food lovers.
The tasting menu begins with a plate of Ezme featuring fire-braised tomatoes and pickled chili, a delicate blend of smoky and spicy flavors, elevated by Persian spices. The raw vegetables on ice are a refreshing counterpoint to the warmth of the dish, offering a balance that reflects the restaurant’s commitment to using the freshest ingredients, sourced from handpicked suppliers.
Moving through the courses, the Bath blue cheese dish stands out for its combination of bitter leaves, sweet pear, and crunchy walnut, served alongside a perfectly crisp sourdough flatbread. This dish pays homage to the best of British produce while keeping the flavors simple yet bold.
A modern take on comfort food, the cider-brined boneless fried chicken brings a touch of sweetness from the brown sugar buffalo sauce, while the blue cheese dressing adds a tangy richness. It’s a dish that could easily become a signature, delivering a perfect balance of texture and flavor.
The blackened courgette is an understated masterpiece for vegetarians, with crispy chili oil and garlic yogurt creating a harmonious blend of heat and coolness. The lamb kofta is equally impressive, tender and spiced to perfection, complemented by a vibrant mint and coriander chutney, all tied together with creamy West Country yoghurt.
Another highlight is the slow-cooked aubergine, soft and comforting, paired with makhani dahl and crispy buckwheat for added texture. The flavors are deep and complex, yet comforting—a reflection of the Granary’s mission to bring uncomplicated food to life with imagination.
The meal ends with a decadent chocolate mousse, served with fudge and caramac ice cream, a dessert that’s both nostalgic and indulgent, much like the building itself, which has seen many transformations over the years.
At £45 for two, this tasting menu is an affordable journey through some of the finest ingredients and flavors. With the addition of wine pairing at £20 per person, it becomes a complete experience that matches the grandeur of its surroundings. Dining at The Granary is more than just enjoying a meal—it’s a chance to connect with Bristol’s history, where the past meets the present in every bite.
